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Hi Everyone,
 
As usual I took a lengthy break between newsletters. We have lots to catch up on.
 
First and foremost Robyn, Zoe and I welcomed a new member to our family. Cooper Moon Leroux was born on June 15^th. He’s a happy and healthy 7lb 8oz boy.
 
My younger brother Nicholas is now doing his masters degree at the Nova Scotia Agriculture College in Truro under the watchful eye of research director Andy Hammermeister. They are studying amongst other things how black currant antioxidants change between different cultivars, harvest timings and management practices as well as soil activity under permanent plastic mulch.
 
We have a few limited bulk specials for fall, black and purple raspberries, seedless grapes as well as hazelnut seedlings, heartnut seedlings, chums and much more. Click here to see our fall specials.

Black raspberries	Seedling Heartnut at maturity

We will be holding a few “walk and talk” tree tours at the farm this summer the cost is $20 per person. These tours will give you the opportunity to see shrubs, plants, vines and trees in full size and in some cases they will be in fruit. The dates are August 7^th at 10:00 am, August 31^st at 10:00 am and September 11^th at 10:00 am. Email us if you are interested. If you have a group we can give you a private tour on alternate dates as well.

I think I’ll focus on tree planting and protection in this newsletter.
 
Here are a few tips on how to maximize tree growth and survival:

• I’ve heard all kinds of complicated theories but it’s quite simple, a tree doesn’t like wet, poorly drained soil. So don’t plant in wet low lying, heavy clay or poorly drained soil. You are just setting yourself up for disaster. If that’s all you have as far as land then you should move (just kidding!). You can build a mound or elevated burms and then plant in those or install drainage.
• A fruit tree has two weak spots, the first is the new growth. That’s often why trees that grow too quickly freeze back (e.g. mulberry). This isn’t a serious problem as it usually makes the tree stronger but it will take a little more time to produce. Keeping it sheltered from wind will help.
• A fruit tree’s other weak spot is the graft. The graft is much like an injured finger, it takes longer to heal and feels the cold more quickly that the rest of the tree. We believe that the callus tissue at the graft point is weakest because it seems to have more succulence which means it hasn’t hardened off very well. On that note, cold is not usually the main issue, it’s cold mixed with wind (wind chill factor). The wind is the killer. So as we’ve said a million times in the past, protect the graft. I suggest mounding earth around graft in October and removing in spring for the first few years. In some cases you can actually just bury the graft but here’s where it gets tricky. The rootstock (graft) provides the tree with a few elements that are sometimes important. Disease resistance, cold hardiness, soil adaptability (certain rootstock takes heavier soils) and most importantly final tree size. The first two are not necessarily affected by burying graft but the tree size can be. So If the tree you are planting is on regular rootstock bury the graft all you want it won’t make a difference except for protecting that graft buys you at least 2 or 3 zones. A good example is that we have an almond tree in its third year of healthy growth in our exposed, windy field.
• Use mulch at the base of the tree as this will increase soil microbial activity as well as enrich your soil.
• Fertilize a few times per summer, organic seaweed based fertilizer is best.
• In October put a tree guard (mouse and rodent protection) around the base of your tree.
• Last but not least the two best times to plant (bare root) are (in fall) between October 21^st and Early December and (in spring) from April 1^st to May 15^th . (Timing vary somewhat depending on climate zone you live in)

        
Over the past few years we have started doing more and more planting in the fall for those who missed the spring planting season. Early indications show a 95% success rate for fall planted trees (similar to spring planting success rates) and those that have not survived fall planting were mainly trees that are known to be a little more sensitive.
 
If you are intending on planting an orchard or expanding your existing orchard feel free to give us shout we have some great plant material for fall. We have also caught up with demand and will have 1 year old stock of the following trees and shrubs: Kenko and Shinseiki Asian pears, Red Star Plum, Northbrite pear, Goldstar plum, and Manor and Kappa chums. We also have our own cold hardyArguta kiwis as well as all kinds of grapes and raspberries.
 
Our sister company Straw Hat Organic Food will be looking for fruit suppliers as time goes on you can contact us for details. We have reduced some of our retail and wholesale pricing so check out the trees you are interested in they might be cheaper than last year.
 
Have a great summer.

Steve and the Green Barn Team

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